• Chalked Climber

3 Science-Based Power Endurance Workouts

Updated: Jun 12, 2019

Today I'm headed to the climbing gym to train power endurance. I will be doing the 10 hardest boulders I can in one session. The goal is to do a large volume of near maximal effort boulders while trying to climb them with the best technique possible. Today I'll talk about some of the ways I've trained power endurance before, hopefully, you can pick up a few fresh ideas for your training sessions.



I'll start with probably the most well-known power endurance workout. How you do a 4x4 is you find 4 boulder problems that are hard but below your redpoint and climb the back to back, without a rest, until you do (or get past halfway) all of them. Then you take 4 minutes rest and do it again, and repeat 4 times. If you fall on more than once on the first time through then you need to pick easier problems. You should be doing 95% of the moves of all the boulders otherwise you need to pick easier climbs until you get roughly to that number. Be Careful to not pick climbs that you could take a dangerous fall when tired.


I have seen some great results quickly (after a week) from doing this exercise after my session 2-3 times a week. Personally, I love this drill because when done right it pushes you really hard and improves your power endurance. I would definitely recommend this drill to anyone that has access to a bouldering wall.


Another power endurance workout I've tried is tilting back the tread wall and pulling on for about 2-5 minutes. I've done this two different ways to train for different things.



One method I've used the treadwall for working more power endurance for bouldering. Where I would find a sequence that felt pretty close to my redpoint and try to find an angle that made it hard but not maximal effort to stay on for 2 minutes. Then rest for 2-4 minutes based on how pumped I got, you shouldn't get back on the tread wall if you know you are too pumped to get to the 2-minute mark. Then shoot for 3-4 reps; you can also move to slightly easier holds if you are about to come off before the 2-minute mark. The Goal is to get tired and push for the last 20 seconds every time.


I have found this really helpful and effective to improve my power endurance for onsighting shorter boulder problems, and redpointing hard boulders.



So for this drill, you should start with some harder holds then as you get tired use easier holds on the treadwall to get a little recovered and then get back on harder holds. The goal is to stay on the wall for the whole 5 minutes doing the hardest moves possible. Aim for 3-4 reps with 10-15 minutes rest.


This exercise is a great way to improve your endurance for onsighting longer boulders and steep sport climbs. This isn't what you want to spend a lot of time doing if you only do shorter boulders.

In Conclusion, these are just a few of the ways to improve power endurance, there are many more out there. If you guys have any questions or want to get in touch with me, I'd love to talk and answer any questions you have. The best way to get in touch with me is through the comments below or Direct Message me on Instagram. (https://www.instagram.com/chalked.climber/)